Global fashion brands work leather for their products in a hellish environment

by Marco Arezio 

Have we ever wondered, do they look at a designer leather handbag or a glove or a jacket or a pair of shoes , what is their production path, and if, through our purchase, we support a poisoned and deadly market?

I would say that few people ask this question, attracted by the beauty of the leather item they want to buy, despite the fact that the prices of fashion items can cost a fortune, with the sole intention of satisfying one's desire.

If you sit comfortably, I'll tell you what usually lies behind the production of a leather garment that it must be tanned and colored, yes, because these two operations are, in the leather production sector, among the most polluting and harmful to human health and the ecosystem.

We are in Bangladesh, which has become the world center of leather tanning, favored by orders arriving from fashion houses or for of fashion, who find in this nation a low-cost production system without particular constraints.

The country is one of the largest leather producers in the world, with a large presence of tanneries that process animal skins to produce leather products such as shoes, bags and clothing.

However, many of these tanneries operate in an unregulated manner and without adequate environmental safety standards, causing serious damage to the environment and human health.

How Bangladeshi tanneries affect the environment and community life

Tanneries use a wide range of chemicals for the tanning process, including solvents, dyes, preservatives and cleaning chemicals. Many of these chemicals are highly toxic and can contaminate surface water and groundwater if disposed of improperly.

The processing of leather produces large quantities of solid waste, such as leather scraps and tanning residues. If this waste is not disposed of properly, it can contaminate the surrounding soil and water resources.

The tanning process requires huge quantities of water, which is extracted from rivers and other sources. Consumption of water by tanneries can lead to depletion of local water resources and droughts.

Furthermore, water pollution negatively affects fish species and the biodiversity of the aquatic ecosystem.

What pollutants end up in the rivers of Bangladesh due to tanneries

Tanneries in Bangladesh can discharge various pollutants into surrounding rivers, causing serious damage to aquatic ecosystems. Some of the main pollutants that end up in rivers are:

Toxic chemicals

During the tanning process, chemicals such as solvents, dyes, preservatives and cleaning chemicals are used. Many of these substances are toxic and can contaminate river waters.

Hexavalent chromium

Hexavalent chromium, a highly toxic and carcinogenic chemical compound, is often used in tanneries to fix the color of leather. Its uncontrolled discharge can seriously contaminate rivers, making them dangerous for aquatic life and for people who depend on water resources.

Solid waste

Tanneries generate large quantities of solid waste such as leather waste, tanning residues and hair. These often end up directly in rivers, causing water pollution and damaging river ecosystems.

Ammonia

Ammonia is a by-product of leather processing that can contaminate river waters. Discharge into rivers can cause excessive growth of algae and other aquatic organisms, leading to depletion of oxygen in the water and death of aquatic life.

Persistent organic pollutants (POPs)

Certain chemicals used in tanneries, such as chlorophenols and polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs), are considered persistent organic pollutants. These pollutants can accumulate in aquatic organisms and have harmful effects on the food chain.

The pollution of rivers caused by tanneries has serious consequences on the aquatic ecosystem, including the loss of biodiversity, the alteration of the habitat of aquatic organisms and the compromised water quality.

How production affects workers' health

The pollution of tanneries has serious consequences for human health and the local ecosystem. Communities living near tanneries are particularly affected, with increased cases of respiratory diseases, skin irritations, eye problems and nervous system disorders.

Furthermore, workers in tanneries in Bangladesh can be exposed to various health risks, due to working conditions and exposure to dangerous chemicals. Some of the diseases associated with tannery work include:

Dermatitis

Exposure to irritating and allergenic chemicals used in the tanning process can cause dermatitis, which are inflammations of the skin. These conditions can manifest as rashes, redness, itching, and irritation.

Respiratory problems

Workers in tanneries can be exposed to harmful vapors and dusts, which can cause irritation of the respiratory tract and respiratory problems such as asthma, chronic bronchitis and other lung diseases.

Ocular diseases

Exposure to chemicals and dusts can also cause eye irritation and conjunctivitis, which are inflammation of the membrane lining the inside of the eyelids and the surface of the eye.

Heavy metal poisoning

Some chemicals used in tanneries contain heavy metals such as chromium, which can accumulate in workers' bodies and cause damage to the kidneys, liver and to the nervous system.

Neurological disorders

Exposure to solvents and other toxic chemicals can increase the risk of neurological disorders such as peripheral nerve damage, cognitive impairment, and attention deficits .

Cancer

Exposure to carcinogenic chemicals, such as hexavalent chromium present in some tanning processes, can increase the risk of developing malignant tumours, in particular lung and respiratory tract cancers.

Why world fashion brands continue to produce tanned leather in Bangladesh

There are several reasons why global fashion brands continue to have tanned leather produced in Bangladesh despite pollution problems and issues related to workers.

Bangladesh is known for its low cost of production and cheap tanning industry. Fashion brands often look to reduce production costs to increase profit margins, and moving production to low-cost countries, such as Bangladesh, can be one way to achieve this.

Bangladesh has developed a solid manufacturing base, including ample manufacturing capacity and infrastructure, adequate for the tanning industry. This makes the country an attractive option for brands looking for large-scale production.

Over the years, many companies have established relationships and well-established supply chains with leather producers and tanneries in Bangladesh. Changing your supply chain would require additional time, resources and costs.

Finally, some brands can take advantage of less stringent regulations or regulatory gaps in the country of manufacture. This can enable them to avoid or reduce safety and environmental liabilities on tanneries and reduce compliance costs.

Automatic translation. We apologize for any inaccuracies. Original article in Italian.