Preparations, Hopes, Challenges, and Tragedies in the Presence of Nanga Parbat. Chapter 2: Preparation and Departure

by Marco Arezio

As the allure of Nanga Parbat resonated in their minds and hearts, the Messner brothers knew that the path to the summit of the Rupal Face would be strewn with unimaginable challenges.

The preparation for such an endeavor required much more than mere physical endurance and technical skills; it necessitated indomitable mental strength, a deep understanding of nature, and an almost sacred respect for the mountain they were about to climb.

Reinhold and Günther were aware that the success of their expedition depended largely on their preparation. Days, weeks, and months were dedicated to improving their condition.

Equipment Selection

In an era when mountaineering technology was still evolving, choosing the right equipment was crucial.

The Messner brothers' equipment selection for the ascent of Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face reflected a meticulous and innovative approach, anticipating many of the practices now common in modern mountaineering. In a period of technological transition in mountain gear, Reinhold and Günther Messner had to balance the need for lightness with the need for durability and reliability. Let's take a closer look at how they tackled these choices:

Boots and Thermal Clothing

The selection of boots was critical, as they needed to provide insulation from the intense cold, offer good grip on ice and snow, and at the same time allow some agility during climbing. The Messners opted for boots with a robust yet relatively lightweight construction, incorporating the best insulating materials available at the time.

For clothing, they chose innovative thermal down jackets, which used cutting-edge materials to retain body heat while being surprisingly light. This type of clothing was crucial for surviving extreme nighttime temperatures without adding excessive weight to their load.

Ice Axes and Ropes

The ice axes chosen needed to be versatile, suitable for both ice climbing and overcoming rocky sections. The Messner brothers preferred models that effectively balanced sturdiness, lightness, and ergonomic design, to ensure a secure grip and reduce fatigue during prolonged use.

Ropes were another vital piece of equipment. Given the importance of safety in the mountains, priority was given to high-quality ropes that combined strength and flexibility. Here too, the choice was geared towards products that offered the best compromise between weight and performance, opting for nylon ropes capable of withstanding abrasions and low temperatures without becoming stiff or difficult to handle.

Backpacks and Hydration Systems

The backpacks needed to be spacious enough to carry all the necessities, but also comfortable to wear and easy to access during the march. The Messners chose backpacks with advanced suspension systems that evenly distributed the weight, reducing the risk of fatigue.

Hydration was another crucial consideration, especially given the difficulty of finding liquid water at those altitudes. They, therefore, brought special thermoses that could keep the water from melting ice liquid as long as possible.

Final Considerations

The equipment choice for the expedition on Nanga Parbat demonstrated the Messner brothers' intuition and innovative perspective. It was not just about selecting the most advanced gear available at the time but also about deeply understanding their physical and psychological needs in extreme conditions.

This holistic approach to equipment, balancing performance, weight, and reliability, has influenced future generations of mountaineers, helping to push the outdoor equipment industry towards increasingly sophisticated and specific solutions for various mountaineering disciplines.

Climbing Strategy

The climbing strategy adopted by the Messner brothers for their historic ascent of the Rupal Face on Nanga Parbat in 1970 marked a turning point in Himalayan mountaineering. Their innovative approach was based on a deep understanding of mountain dynamics, as well as a personal philosophy that favored autonomy, lightness, and minimal environmental impact.

Preliminary Analysis

Reinhold and Günther Messner spent months preparing for their expedition, part of which involved a detailed study of the conditions of the Rupal Face. Through examining reports from previous expeditions and analyzing aerial photographs, they sought to map out key features of the face: snow accumulation zones, crevasses, steep icy slopes, and exposed rock walls. This preparatory work was crucial for planning a route that maximized safety and efficiency.

Choosing Alpine Style

Choosing to climb in alpine style was, at that time, a real revolution in Himalayan mountaineering. Unlike traditional Himalayan expeditions, which relied on large support teams, fixed camps along the route, and the use of supplemental oxygen, the alpine style emphasized speed, agility, and self-sufficiency.

The Messners carried only the essentials, foregoing high-altitude porters and proceeding without supplemental oxygen. This approach reduced weight and allowed greater flexibility and adaptability to the rapidly changing conditions of the mountain.

Risks and Challenges

Adopting an alpine style climbing strategy on the Rupal Face involved significant risks. Without the support of fixed camps along the ascent, the Messner brothers had to carry everything necessary to survive the extreme environmental conditions, increasing the physical and mental load. Moreover, by proceeding without supplemental oxygen, they had to directly face the effects of altitude, which included the risk of mountain sickness, pulmonary and cerebral edema.

The Messners' approach to the Rupal Face not only demonstrated that it was possible to climb the highest Himalayan peaks in alpine style, but it profoundly influenced the evolution of mountaineering in the following decades. They showed that, with proper preparation and a deep respect for the mountain, climbers could reduce the environmental impact of their expeditions while simultaneously tackling challenges that many deemed impossible.

Departure of the Expedition to Nanga Parbat

When everything was finally ready, the Messner brothers and their team set out towards Nanga Parbat, filled with hope and determination, but aware of the difficulties that awaited them.

The departure was a moment of intense emotion: a mix of excitement for the adventure that lay ahead and tension for the unknowns of the journey. The decision to leave family, friends, and the safety of their home in South Tyrol to face one of the world's most dangerous mountains was an act of courage, but also a profound expression of their adventurous spirit and their quest for meaning beyond the boundaries of the known.

The preparation and departure of the Messner brothers for the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat reveal not only as preliminary phases of the ascent but as an integral part of their spiritual journey. Their meticulous physical and mental preparation, the conscious selection of equipment, and the strategic planning of the ascent reflected a deep understanding that success in the mountains requires more than mere strength or courage; it necessitates respect, connection with nature, and acute awareness of one's capabilities and limits.

These first steps towards the Rupal Face were thus the prelude to a story of challenge, discovery, and transformation in the history of human exploration.

As the Messner brothers and their team approached the base of the Rupal Face, each step not only physically brought them closer to their goal but also further immersed them in a context of isolation and extreme challenge. The approach to base camp was a rite of passage, a gradual detachment from the known world to an environment where nature commanded with undisputed authority.

The awareness of this detachment was palpable among the expedition members. With every kilometer that separated them from civilization, they realized they were entering a sphere of existence where survival depended on their skills, their inner strength, and, not insignificantly, their ability to adapt and respond as a cohesive entity.

Group cohesion, mutual trust, and sharing a common vision were as essential as the equipment they carried on their backs.

Arrival at Base Camp

Arrival at base camp was a moment of profound reflection for Reinhold and Günther. The immensity of the Rupal Face stood before them, a giant of rock and ice that challenged their ambitions and dreams.

But rather than intimidate them, the sight of the face strengthened their determination. In this remote place, far from the ephemeral clamor of the world, the Messner brothers confronted their most authentic selves, with that indomitable core that drove them upward, despite the risks.

On the evening before the start of the ascent, the base camp was pervaded by a sense of quiet anticipation. As final preparations were completed, each member of the expedition found themselves immersed in their thoughts, perhaps pondering the imminent challenges or simply savoring the last moments of calm before the storm. It was a suspended time, an interlude of silence loaded with promises and perils.

Reinhold and Günther, more aware than anyone of the scope of their endeavor, spent those hours contemplating the mountain, quietly discussing the possible scenarios they might encounter in the days to come. In these moments, their fraternal relationship became a source of immeasurable strength. The trust and understanding that bound them were the result of years of sharing, of challenges faced together, of successes and failures that had shaped their bond into something indestructible.

Climbing the Rupal Face to the Last Camp

The following morning, as dawn bathed the Rupal Face in ethereal light, the Messner brothers, accompanied by their team, began the ascent. This step represented the embodiment of months of preparations, hopes, and dreams.

But beyond personal ambitions and the desire for conquest, there was an awareness of being part of something greater than themselves, of an adventure that challenged the limits of the human and sought deeper contact with the immense and untamable spirit of the mountain.

The preparation and departure for the Rupal Face revealed themselves as a metaphor for the journey of life, where success depends on the ability to face the unknown with courage, preparation, and a deep sense of communion with the surrounding world. As the Messner brothers and their team ventured upward, they carried not only the physical weight of their equipment but also the weight of their aspirations, their fears, and their deepest hopes.

It was the beginning of an ascent that would test every fiber of their being, but also offer the opportunity to transcend known limits, explore new horizons of human existence, and confront the indomitable greatness of nature.

With every meter conquered on the face, the team not only approached the summit but also gained a greater understanding of themselves and their relationship with the world. This ascent, with its moments of pure joy and extreme difficulty, became a microcosm of life itself, reminding them that every achievement is the result of perseverance, mutual trust, and deep respect for the environment that surrounds them.

The climb through the Rupal Face proved to be a transformative experience. Each step forward required a decision, each choice a calculation not only of physical conditions but also of the morale of the team. The technical challenges of the ascent, the unpredictable weather conditions, and the constant threat of avalanches or rock falls tested their determination and required a collective response, uniting the team in a common goal.

During the climb, moments of doubt and fear were inevitable. However, in these moments, the strength of the bond between the Messner brothers and their commitment to the team shone brightest. Their leadership, founded on example rather than authority, inspired trust and courage, allowing everyone to overcome difficult moments and continue the ascent.

In these extreme circumstances, the team learned the value of humility in the face of the mountain's greatness. Every advance on the face was a reminder of the smallness of man in the face of the vastness of nature, but also of the extraordinary human capacity to overcome seemingly insurmountable obstacles with team spirit, ingenuity, and courage.

When they finally reached the highest camp before the final attempt for the summit, the sense of accomplishment was palpable, but there was also the awareness that the greatest challenge still awaited them. The summit was close, but the mountain had not yet revealed all its secrets or tested the team with its ultimate defenses.

At this moment, the Messner brothers faced the ultimate test of faith: in their preparation, in their team spirit, in their ability to face the unknown. They were ready to make the final push towards the summit, armed with the lessons learned during the ascent and with a determination reinforced by the challenges overcome.

The Rupal Face, with its cruel beauty and daunting challenge, had become a catalyst for personal growth, an arena where the limits of the individual and the collective were tested and, ultimately, surpassed.

They had faced their fears, forged unbreakable bonds, and discovered an inner strength that would sustain them well beyond the mountain. Nanga Parbat, in its imposing indifference, had imparted its most precious lessons: the greatness of nature, the value of respect, and the importance of humility. These lessons, etched in the hearts of the Messner brothers and their team, would guide them not only to the summit but through all the challenges of life.