Preparations, Hopes, Challenges, and Tragedies in the Presence of Nanga Parbat. Chapter 1: The Call of the Mountain

by Marco Arezio

Mountaineering, in its purest essence, has always been more than just a physical conquest. For many, it represents a profound inner journey, a dialogue between man and nature that transcends the confines of mere physical adventure.

No story embodies this truth better than that of the first ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1970 via its formidable Rupal North Face by brothers Reinhold and Günther Messner. This epic climb not only marked a crucial chapter in the history of mountaineering but also in the heart and soul of those who dared to undertake it.

What is the Rupal North Face of Nanga Parbat?

The Rupal North Face of Nanga Parbat, often described as the "highest wall on Earth," represents one of the most formidable and impressive challenges in mountaineering.

With a vertical rise of approximately 4,600 meters from its base to the summit, this face is located on the south side of the mountain and is part of the Nanga Parbat massif, which is the ninth highest in the world, rising to 8,126 meters above sea level.

In the 1960s, the Rupal North Face was considered by many climbers to be the "last problem of the Himalayas," a highly coveted yet equally feared goal due to its technical difficulties, objective risks, and logistical challenges.

The face presented (and still presents) a formidable combination of obstacles, including extremely steep ice slopes, nearly vertical rock faces, and the constant danger of avalanches and rock falls. Its vastness and isolation added additional layers of difficulty, making any attempt to climb it a serious and risky endeavor.

The perception of climbers in the 1960s was heavily influenced by stories of previous expeditions that had attempted to conquer Nanga Parbat, some of which had tragic outcomes.

However, this reputation also helped to fuel the allure and attraction toward Nanga Parbat, as climbers from around the world saw in its conquest not just an extreme sporting challenge but also an opportunity to test the limits of human endurance and technical capability.

Profiles of the Main Climbers

Reinhold Messner: Considered one of the greatest mountaineers of all time, Reinhold was known for his extraordinary physical strength, iron will, and adventurous life philosophy. A pioneer of the alpine style in high mountains, his vision of mountaineering emphasized the purity of the experience and a deep respect for nature.

Beyond his mountain career, he is a passionate advocate for environmental conservation and a prolific author, with numerous books exploring the philosophy of adventure and exploration.

Günther Messner: Reinhold's younger brother, Günther shared the passion for mountaineering and adventure. Though less well-known than his brother, his technical competence and endurance were crucial to the success of their joint ventures.

Their close fraternal relationship and mutual trust were evident in all their climbs, with Günther playing a crucial role in supporting Reinhold's mountaineering ambitions.

The team also included other talented climbers, each bringing vital skills and experience to the expedition. However, the emotional and narrative focus remains on the Messner brothers, whose deep bond and shared vision were at the heart of the endeavor.

Nanga Parbat, also known as the "Killer Mountain," stands majestically among the peaks of the Himalayas, challenging climbers with its inhospitable slopes and extreme conditions. Yet, it was this mountain that called to the Messner brothers, enticing them with the promise of an adventure that would test not only their courage and endurance but also their will and spirit.

The decision to tackle the North Face of the Rupal, the world's highest rock face, was emblematic of their desire to explore the limits of human being, to challenge themselves against the forces of nature in one of its most pristine and fearsome forms.

Reinhold and Günther Messner's attraction to Nanga Parbat was not driven simply by a desire for success or a hunger for recognition, rather, it reflected a spiritual connection with the mountain, an understanding that climbing was as much an inward journey as it was a physical ascent.

They saw the mountain as a place of trial and self-revelation, an arena where they could confront their deepest limits, overcome their fears, and discover their most authentic selves.

This vision of mountaineering, rooted in a culture that values the authenticity of the experience and deep respect for nature, set them apart in an era when exploration of the great peaks was often dominated by conquest rather than comprehension. Their approach was antithetical to the notion of dominance over the environment; rather, they sought a dialogue, a sort of communion with the mountain, which saw them as guests rather than conquerors.

Choosing to climb the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat was thus a declaration of principles and values. It was not just about facing an extreme physical challenge, but about embarking on a path of inner exploration that would transform them.

The mountain, with its rugged walls and inhospitable environment, was the medium through which the Messners sought answers to existential questions, a place where the struggle for external survival mirrored an internal battle for self-understanding.

In this light, Nanga Parbat was not simply a mountain to be climbed, but a passage to a deeper self-awareness. Their ascent aimed to explore not just the geographical boundaries of the Himalayas but also the inner boundaries of the human soul.

The Rupal Face thus became a powerful symbol of the human quest for meaning, a place where the physicality of the climb was inextricably intertwined with the spirit of those who dared to face it.

The Motivations Behind the Expedition

At the heart of organizing the expedition were several motivations. First, there was the desire to overcome one of the most arduous and dangerous alpine challenges of the time. The Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat was considered the "killer face," a 4500-meter wall that represented one of the last unsolved problems in Himalayan mountaineering.

Conquering it promised not only a place in the annals of mountaineering history but also an opportunity for the Messner brothers to test their physical and psychological limits.

Second, there was a push toward technical and tactical innovation in mountaineering. The Messner brothers were pioneers of the alpine style in the Himalayas, an approach that favored lightness, speed, and self-sufficiency over the heavily supported expeditions that were the norm. This style reflected a deeper respect for the mountain and a pursuit of a purer and more direct experience.

Third, the expedition represented an inner journey, a quest for meaning beyond the known boundaries of the world. For the Messners, as for many climbers, the mountain was a place for spiritual reflection, an environment to confront their own fears, doubts, and deepest aspirations.

The decision to undertake the climb of the Rupal Face was thus the result of a complex interplay of personal, professional, and philosophical motivations.

For the Messner brothers and their team members, the expedition represented the culmination of a life dedicated to exploring the limits of what is humanly possible, both physically and spiritually. The mountain called, and they responded not just with their bodies and minds, but with their whole beings.

In this first chapter of their extraordinary adventure, the call of the mountain emerges not just as a physical challenge but as a summons to self-discovery, an invitation to enter into a dialogue with the infinite.

On the eve of departure, as the Messner brothers finalized their preparations, they faced a confluence of emotions. Excitement for the impending adventure mixed with a sense of reverence and humility before the majesty of Nanga Parbat.

It was clear that what they were about to face was not a mere physical milestone; it was a pilgrimage to the deepest abysses of their existence. The mountain, with its grandeur and inescapable presence, called them to a challenge that was as much against themselves as it was against the natural elements.

The night before their departure, under a starry sky that seemed almost an omen of the perilous path that awaited them, Reinhold and Günther shared a moment of quiet reflection. Aware that the journey they were about to embark on could change them in ways they could only imagine, they pledged to each other to face every difficulty with courage and determination, always maintaining a deep respect for the mountain they were about to scale.

This almost mystical connection with Nanga Parbat was not just a testament to their love for mountaineering but also reflected a broader understanding of their place in the world. They saw the mountain not only as an adversary to be conquered but as a stern and impartial teacher, capable of imparting profound and lasting life lessons.

Approach to Base Camp

The expedition would begin with the arrival of the Messner brothers and the rest of the team at Rawalpindi Airport, near Islamabad, which at the time was the main international airport serving the capital of Pakistan.

Upon arrival, the team would organize their transfer to the north of Pakistan, heading towards Gilgit or Chilas. Given the era, it is likely that they traveled by road, facing a long and arduous journey through the Karakoram Highway (KKH), which was under construction at the time and not fully operational as it is today.

This journey would offer them their first true glimpse of the majesty and challenge presented by the Himalayan and Karakorum mountains.

From Gilgit or Chilas, the team would continue to the village of Tarashing, located at the base of the slope. This part of the journey could have been completed using local transport available such as trucks or jeeps adapted to handle mountain roads.

The final part of the journey to Nanga Parbat's base camp would involve a multi-day trek through imposing mountain landscapes. This route would test their endurance and mark the beginning of their acclimatization to high altitudes.

The Messner brothers and their team would carry with them equipment, food, and other necessary materials, also relying on the help of local porters to transport the heavier loads.

The chapter concludes with the Messner brothers heading towards the base of the Rupal Face, their figures small yet resolute against the immense backdrop of the mountain. In this moment of departure, they were fully aware of the magnitude of the challenge they had chosen to face, but they were driven by an indomitable spirit of adventure and an insatiable thirst for knowledge.

Their stride was steady, their hearts full of hope, and their minds open to the infinite possibilities that Nanga Parbat had to offer. It was the beginning of a legendary mountaineering feat, but also of a profound personal odyssey that would leave an indelible mark on their lives and on the entire world of mountaineering.